Materials and Tools
• Machine or Pasta Machine
• Blades, Exacto knife
• Lucy Clay Microstencils (here Set 9 )
• LC Czextruder
• LC Disk 5
• Scrap clay
• Black clay
• Colour clay (of your choice)
• Pearlex or panpastels
• Metal tube
• Texture mat
• Silk or other cord to attach
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Liselot Henderyckx is a Flemish lady who has been active in the polymer clay world since 2009. Since then she has been hooked to this wonderful material and is still discovering its many possibilities. She is teaching monthly classes and organizes master classes and runs a small business under the name of Creala.
www.creala.be | Facebook page: Creala by Liselot Henderyckx
Condition polymer clay and make a slab. I used setting Nr. 4 on my Atlas.
Put it on a piece of paper to make the next step easier. Cut the slab in 2 so that you have a straight line in the middle.
Take a Microstencil, put it where you want it to be and roll it in.
If you have distorted the straight line a bit by rolling the Microtencil in, try to take the Microtencil off, cut the edge straight again and put the Microtencil back in place. Put another piece of paper on top and flip it over.
Now we will work on the opposite side of where the Microtencil is. Take another Microstencil, gently roll it in (don’t press too hard) and take some Pearlex to fill the open spaces. Cover both sides with Pearlex. The same effect can be obtained with other materials such as pan pastels or paint.
Cut the length you would like your piece to be. I measured the width so it can go around my brass tube, but not all the way around. I want to add a flat piece at the back. I left the Microtencil the way it is, you don’t want to cut this also.
Gently start wrapping it around the brass tube, trying not to disturb the pattern or wrinkle the Microtencil. I try not to distort the clay, using a texture mat (this also creates a nice textile effect) and go slowly back and forth, don’t rush this step as this could loosen the Microtencil from the clay at this point.
I use some tape to stick the Microtencil to the tube. To protect the Pearlex and to make the Microtencil stronger, I use a bit of liquid polymer clay. Bake it at the recommended temperature.
Meantime make a hollow tube using the extruder and these tools. It can be scrap clay as we will cover it. Bake it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Remove the baked piece from the tube. You will see that the paper is a bit longer than the 2 clay pieces. This is what we want as we will add another layer to the clay now, but not to the paper yet. Again working on a piece of paper is easier.
Condition a piece of clay (thickness can be chosen, mine is setting 4) Cut in 2 and align with the Microtencil. If the sides of the Microtencil touches the paper underneath it is perfect. If the Microtencil is too wide, cut it a bit. Draw a line where the Microtencil is to make the next step easier.
Add another layer of clay (can be thinner, I used setting Nr. 5) underneath and align the pieces of clay with the lines you made.
Cut a piece of the tube you made and cover it with a thin layer of clay. Press the tube down.
Put the other piece on top and trim the sides of the clay underneath. You will see the inside piece is ‘floating’ inside the other tube. It is ok that the coloured tube is sticking out a bit, we will deal with it later. To make the Microstencil stronger you can add again a thin layer of liquid clay. Bake it.
When the piece is taken out of the oven and is still a bit warm, it will be easy to cut the coloured tube. Take a piece of clay, texture it and add it to the sides. Add a backside and bake a final time.
To make the Microstencil extra strong you can use a little resin to ‘paint’ it with.
Put a cord through it and enjoy!
Download the tutorial in PDF for free: Tube-Pendant